Page 12 - SA Mountain Issue 64
P. 12

                                    the wall has a coldness, and so late in the year there are only a few minutes when the sun hits the wall.
creativity is the way to reach the goal, and this also applies in particular to the Sueños de Invierno. without an innovative approach, you simply can’t  nd any protection on this compact wall. on the fourth pitch there are  ve successive skyhooks for protection, which makes for rather adventurous climbing.
Plomo, the Spanish version of the copperhead we know from yosemite. a lead lump with a thin wire loop – the ideal means of aid climbing up this wall of compact limestone, but completely unusable for free climbing.
it is not the actual dif culty, but the minimal safety provisions that make the Sueños de Invierno so demanding.
you will  nd the most demanding bolted climbing pitches. Fabian focussed on
the  rst A4 pitch, while I worked on the A4+. The climbing here is done largely using the plomos, beaten into the rock
into any uneven areas – a tried and tested way of working upwards with a hammer and ladder. But one thing that was also apparent: if a plomo doesn’t hold, then there’s the famous zip – if one plomo rips, then twenty more may follow! It was clear that these two pitches were not the biggest problem from a technical perspective. Although the wall is compact, there were  ne structures everywhere. If you have a feeling for vertical climbing, it should not pose a problem. The issue here is simply the protection. In the middle of the A4+ pitch, there is a 20-metre section from one Camalot to the next. In between, there are only skyhooks. Five skyhooks in a row! In fact, a skyhook makes for quite good protection, but is not particularly popular. However, we had no other choice, as nothing else could be attached to this grey wall. >>
It was obvious that you need the right partner for a project like this, and Fabian with his endless enthusiasm for anything steep was just the right person! He also had the right experience and ability, and one thing is clear: you can only do this ascent with someone who knows exactly how to climb a steep rock face without bolts. And this was de nitely the case on the Sueños de Invierno, also in the tenth grade!
and brittle from underneath, the rock was actually secure and surprisingly, not slippery!
Fabian started the second pitch. That was where it was clearly more interesting. At the belay station between the second and third pitch, it was extremely tense, as things were so compact there that it was very dif cult to  nd any holds. The  rst climbers managed to bridge an almost structure-less area with the belay bolts. But we found a solution! We connected the second and third part into a 60-metre- long marathon pitch, and bypassed the compact zone at the belay station just two metres below, using good holds. These good holds continued for the whole length of the pitch, making the climbing moves themselves not that dif cult, although
the breath-taking steepness and the sheer length made the pitch a dif cult one. After these pitches, the large overhang
of the Bermeja was below us, and above us was the Naranjo de Bulnes itself: a wall of the best grey limestone. And there
At the beginning of September, Fabian and I had  ve days off and travelled to Vega de Urriellu. We both had a lot of respect for the wall, and even more for the route, and that’s also precisely how I started the climb – with caution, slowly, so that no protection opportunities were overlooked. And yes, climbing here on the overhanging yellow sea of rocks of the Desplome da la Bermeja, commands a huge amount of respect. The limestone on this large overhang looked wild, but thankfully the  rst impressions were misleading: although it appeared wild
10 SAMOUNTAIN.CO.ZA MARCH–MAY 2018





















































































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