Page 20 - SA Mountain Issue 64
P. 20

                                 TraininG for
 should be hard but not di cult
words by hanna Vartia / 27 crags pics by dicki korb
Dicki Korb, the author of Gimme Kra 
 and coach of Alex Megos shares his secrets
 as climbing is increasing in popularity and the bar being raised by climbers like adam
ondra, nalle Hukkataival and angy eiter, many are looking into ways to improve their climbing. We were more than curious to hear the thoughts of dicki Korb, alex Megos’s coach and the author of one of the most sold climbing training books Gimme Kra . What is that magic ingredient that gets you to the next level?
a while ago we ran into dicki and alex when they were climbing, just like us but ‘a bit’ harder, at sector Mars in leonidio, Greece. They had been invited to the local climbing fes val and Dicki was happy to take some  me o  for a chat about his coaching principles, and climbing in general.
When mee ng later in a cosy cafeteria, we had barely sat down before  nding ourselves in a two-hour conversa on about coaching principles, training  ps, mo va on, sponsors, and much more. Here are the best pieces!
The ProdIgy
together with the fact that the Cafe Kraft gym had opened just one year before, and the book Gimme Kraft was published about two months after the achievement, led to overwhelming attention from climbers around the world: ‘Suddenly everyone wanted to train with us.’
When talking with Dicki it’s impossible
to avoid talking about his most
known athlete Alex Megos – a young phenomenon who jumped into the spotlight after being the  rst person to onsight a 9a when he was only 19 years old. These two have already 11 years of climbing history together. When seeing them having fun at the crag it’s easy to see that they get along more than well.
This combination not only brought a lot of climbers knocking on our door, but also helped to form a partnership with Adidas to start training their athletes such as Sasha DiGiulian and Mélissa Le Nevé. This also allowed Dicki to focus mainly on coaching and take a step back from his former profession as a social worker – although the skills needed in his previous job might not be that far away from those needed in coaching climbers.
‘The story began when Alex was 13 years old and came to our Cafe Kraft gym for the  rst time. My counterpart, Patrick Matros, and I immediately saw that Alex wasn’t normal.’ And Dicki means this
in a good way. ‘He was just extremely motivated to climb. We hadn’t seen anything like it before.’ This was a start
of a relationship where Dicki and Patrick took him under their wing and step by step began to develop his climbing.
One prevalent theme in Dicki’s coaching style is personalised programmes. When it comes to training, there is no one-size-  ts-all solution. ‘This is the reason we stopped group practices for the German
Alex kept on getting stronger and when he managed the  rst ever 9a onsight, there was no doubt that the whole climbing world would know his name. This,
IT’S all abouT

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