Page 21 - SA Mountain Issue 64
P. 21

                                 TraininG for cliMbinG
national team. People need personalised support, and coaching them all at the same time simply doesn’t work.’ Some climbers come to Dicki only sporadically or even for just one session.
How do you manage to make personal programmes when given such a limited  me?
‘I always start with an open discussion in order to understand the whole picture. How do the climbers see themselves, what do they think about climbing and training, what’s their job, and how does their life look like in general? What I also always ask is what they want from me and how they think I can help them. This usually gives a good overview of the situa on and about their goals and wishes.’
When talking about different skills and unique individuals, Dicki mentions a
set of tests which both Adam Ondra
and Alex Megos took. The differences between them were massive. ‘From my point of view, climbing is not measurable. Everyone’s so different and so is their climbing.’
‘i would say 85% of the  me it’s not about power.’
weight lays on the ligaments, not muscles. It’s just horrible for the body.’
short coaching period. You might think these people are pumped up and driven to train when meeting Dicki – in the end they paid for it – but that doesn’t always seem to be the case.
  How can we change this unhealthy trend? Dicki gives one simple but great tip for all gym owners, route setters, and competition coordinators: ‘Bring a doctor or a physiotherapist to check the routes beforehand to avoid unhealthy moves
on the competition problems. World
Cup events would be an obvious starting point.’
‘There was one group of people who were just really anaemic during the whole coaching session. They weren’t excited about climbing at all and seemed like they had just  xed their minds into reaching
a speci c grade. After chatting with
them for a while I simply suggested they stop climbing.’ This of course surprised the whole group. ‘Climbing should be something one enjoys doing. It doesn’t make sense to force oneself to do it continuously if it always feels bad.’ So what was the result? The climbers took Dicki’s advice and had a few months break from climbing. Afterwards they were highly motivated again and were able to achieve the goals they had been pursuing for a long time.
 MenTal gaMe
 Climbing already has a built-in mental game when it comes to heights and falling. Many of us get intimidated every now
and then, and overcoming those situations gives this sport one of its unique features. The mental aspect of this shared passion of ours manifests in plenty of other ways too when it comes to training.
You know those days when you don’t feel like climbing at all but force yourself to go anyway because you’re afraid that your progress might be hindered? When you’re paid to climb, it goes to a whole new level. ‘There’s a big difference in going to the gym because you want to, compared to feeling like you simply have to. What about my sponsors? I have to climb and be strong, it’s my job! Even when athletes are ill or in pain they feel obligated to climb. It’s really tricky!’
Next time you’re seriously lacking motivation, it’s also worth considering whether a break would help. You might be surprised by the results. As Dicki puts it: ‘A good climber wants to climb.’
 ‘I need more power!’ Probably each of us has either said this or heard it after a failed attempt on a route. This is also what many people come to Dicki for: everyone wants to be stronger, especially in the  ngers. ‘I would say 85% of the time it’s not about power. What is way more common are tactical problems. People might have  ve-hour sessions at the gym, but they are not doing it ef ciently. Trying problems
Dicki has also witnessed lack of motivation among (non-professional) climbers who have come to him for a
The MagIC IngredIenT
Even though climbing is a very social sport and often in competitions everyone is genuinely cheering for each other, sharing hasn’t always been the name
of the game in coaching. ‘Climbers proactively coming to us to learn is >>
 is not training, it’s climbing. In training, you have different goals from getting to the top.’
Another factor Dicki pays a lot of attention to in his coaching is the health and well-being of climbers, both mentally and physically. There is one trend that affects especially professional climbers, which he doesn’t like. ‘Shoulder injuries are nowadays a big problem especially in bouldering and in competition climbing. The routes are built for the show and the media which means that often the safety of routes is ignored. Some examples are crazy dynos and iron cross type of moves between slopers where the entire body
MARCH–MAY 2018
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