Page 22 - SA Mountain Issue 64
P. 22

                                 TraininG for cliMbinG
  something very new we have seen over the past two years. Before, the ruling mentality was that one needs to learn themselves. This was also prevalent among coaches! There wasn’t much information sharing, and people felt like they had secrets to protect.’
not about being in the spotlight. Even rest days are problematic. You really have to stop him from climbing.’
VerSaTIlITy oVer
climbers doing crazy things on a campus board, but when they go on the wall,
it looks like their whole upper body is detached from the lower part. You need the connection all the way from the tips of your toes to the edges of your  ngers.’
Even though Dicki repeatedly underlines that climbing is complex, it sounds a bit surprising when he suddenly says that training itself doesn’t need to be. ‘If you need more sloper power, train with slopers. More crimp power? Train with crimps. Training is not as hard as people think!’
 Training is not so hard. That sounds good.
  Everyone is dreaming about  nding the magic ingredient that will take their, or their athlete’s climbing to the next level
– whether it’s hangboard, MoonBoard, campusing or amulets. It’s tempting to think that professional climbers have knowledge that others are missing. Dicki shoots down these claims immediately: ‘I can tell you, there are no secrets!’
Even if there is no magic bullet that will make one a better climber, Dicki has some favourite exercises to share. These are familiar to those who have read Gimme Kraft. ‘Rings are great. You can adjust the level and they are always in motion. And this kind of movement is what happens in climbing too.’
but there must be something that di eren ates the pros from the mainstream?
‘I have seen a lot of strong, professional climbers. But only few of them have this outstanding will to climb. You can see this craziness in their eyes when they push for the moves others  nd impossible. Their eyes pop out and you can tell that they are giving 110% when others leave it to 99,9%. The only reason they might not be able to  nish a route is that they are too weak. It’s not the fric on, the weather, the high gravity, the wound in the pinkie, or anything else.’
‘This is Alex. It’s always horrible to have a photo shoot or to  lm with him because he just wants to climb. The  lmmaker or photographer has just one chance on a route. If Alex sends it, he’s not going to climb it again even if it would be needed for the  lm. He wants to climb another route. He’s extremely motivated to climb,
Another one is the speci c training wall that can be found in many bouldering gyms. It’s usually put a bit to the side
and doesn’t have those tempting obvious routes but rather a splash of holds all over. ‘A 45-degree overhanging wall with small footholds, and you don’t need more for training bouldering. The colour-set routes don’t really train you for competition or outdoors. Overall, there’s no need for anything fancy in order to get strong. All you need is a bit of knowledge and plenty of motivation. What we are currently seeing is that these small walls people used to have in their cellars are coming back. Strong climbers are going back to the caves.’
Compared to many other sports, climbing has an incredible number of layers and it’s extremely complicated. ‘Have you ever seen a route which looks like a hangboard? The muscle system in climbing is so complex, which means that your training needs to be extremely versatile. I’ve seen amazingly strong
• Keep that mo va on up by
not taking climbing too seriously and remember to have fun.
• You don’t need fancy equipment to get strong – one shouldn’t make training too di cult.
• It’s temp ng to train only power but that’s o en not the right focus to get the best results.
• Paying a en on to the tac cs and focusing on technique might
give much be er results.
Want to know more about Dicki’s training methods? Check out the awesome Gimme Kra  website, or contact him directly
at coaches at kra to book a coaching session with him.
Hanna Var a lives in Helsinki and works for 27 Crags as Marke ng Manager and prefers her rock  ve metres high.
27 Crags is building the world’s best online climbing guidebooks together with local climbing communi es – Cape Peninsula will be published online in the  rst half of 2018 in collabora on with Tony Lourens! Get a free trial to 100+ topos and join the community of tens of thousands of climbers by signing up on the website:

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