Page 34 - SA Mountain Issue 64
P. 34

                                 gear reViews
Over decades of climbing, I have climbed with practically every brand and most models of climbing shoe. Yes, I don’t climb the highest grades, but I do climb consistently and I do climb a lot, and I have also climbed on many different rock types – sandstone, limestone, granite, gneiss, rhyolite, gritstone – you name it – from slabs and vertical walls to steep stuff, and the odd roof now and then. From single pitch sport, to looong multi-pitch
trad, and now and then
excursions as well.
Over the years I have put man
a shoe
to the
line is
test – there are good
ones and some not that great, but the
it always
three factors that determine whether a
comes down
To  nish off a great  t, the adjustable double closure system pulls the shoe together perfectly making it feel super cosy and secure. Just be aware that the top closure strap needs the strap underneath to be pulled tight  rst before the top can be cinched down. Also, be sure to go at least a full size down from your normal shoe size.
When it comes to climbing shoes,
performance is
beast that takes m
consideration. Let’s look
a multi-pronged
• rubber and Last Just about all
makes of shoe
any factors into
at each one
have super-sticky rub-
• Hooking The sole of the shoe continues right up the back of the shoe in the form of a generous, 3-ce timetre-wide strip of Vibram XS Grip. This, together with the snug heel  t, enhanced by a broad slingshot rand around the back of the foot, ensures good and secure heel hooking. Toe hooking is also good, but requires more precision, due to the  exibility of the shoe.
IATI is a great shoe that feels
totally at home on all terrains.
 t, making
comfortable yet
it a high-performance
shoe, suitable for top-end routes, but
also ideal for casual
pitch routes. It is
It has
or long multi-
not intended
to be
shoe is great
3: Fit,
or ‘it does the job’. The
Comfort, Performance. If
all three work for you, then you h
a winner. But
because we
individuals with very differently shaped feet, it is often not so easy to  nd a pair of shoes that ticks every box. But the Tenaya IATI is one of those rare shoes that puts a fat tick in each of those boxes and then some.
Fit and ComFort
These two factors generally go hand in hand. The IATI has an astonishingly comfortable feel with a very snug and aggressive  t, which makes it possible
to keep on for longer periods of time
without any of the pain
associated with this. The stretchy
neoprene-lined tongue
sides of the shoe can be pulled
perfectly smo
oth, which gives
against the top of your
are all
attached to
a nice
ber these days, but what
difference is the thickness of the sole,
and the  exibility across the
the shoe. The IATI uses a sensitive
Vibram XS Grip sole that is  exible
but  rm. And incorporated with this is its aggressive (but not overly so) last, making the shoe great for steep routes as well as feeling good on slabby smears and cracks.
• edging Although taking a little while to get used to the edging capabilities
of the IATI due to its sensitivity and  exibility, it does an awesome job when you begin to put your trust in it.
• Smearing
sticks solid,
toe box.
Even though it has
a downturn in the toe, the
magni cent
with no discomfort in the
makes the
width of
a bit
IATI is a
machine, which
a specialised
shoe that
thing really well. It’s a solid all-
high performer that can handle
hard climbing you throw at it. It
excels at technical edging and steep face climbing, and can hold its own when the terrain gets steep. It’s also extremely durable and holds its shape well. For sport climbing and gym climbing, the IATI is one of the
best shoes on the market. Oh, and I also dig the zany frog logo!
does just
R2 800
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