Page 9 - SA Mountain Issue 64
P. 9

                                 While the  rst ascensionists, José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives needed 69 days in winter 33 years ago, the German climbing duo of Alexander Huber (47) and Fabian Buhl (25) required only nine hours. They free climbed the infamous Sueños de Invierno route (literally winter sleep) on the Asturian monolith Picu Urriellu (in the climbing world better known as the Naranjo de Bulnes) and created a sensation in
the whole of Spain. This was because the time of over two months non-stop on the wall by the  rst ascensionists
is still a record to this day. No-one
else has climbed for so long without
a break on a rock face. The purist protection they used contributed
to the myth: apart from the belay stations, they climbed this route almost completely without the use of bolts, which is precisely why repeats of this route are very rare. Huber and Buhl invested  ve days in checking the route, before daring to try red- pointing it, which they managed on their  rst attempt. During their climb in September 2016, the  rst Spanish media representatives made their
way to Asturias to report on this
sensational ascent.
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